Free Pattern: Knot Forgotten Knit Owl

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For all you knitters wanting to take part in this amazing cause, please welcome the Knot Forgotten Knit Owl! 

Recently, I was asked to make knit versions of the latest Knot Forgotten crochet patterns (a monkey and an owl). If you’ve seen my tutorial for the Knot Forgotten Lion, then you’ll know all about this incredible cause. If you haven’t already, sign up at website to download ALL the free patterns and become a #KnotForgottenMaker!

» Click here for the Knot Forgotten Knit Monkey.


YARN: Less than 100g of DK weight yarn in 6 colours (feel free to use more or less, you could easily get away with using only 3 colours).


» A pair of 3mm needles (US 2½) straight or circular

» Less than 1m black embroidery thread for the eyes (DK weight is also fine, but will be thicker)

» Toy stuffing

» Wool needle

» Scissors

» Stitch holder or spare needle

» Pins for making up

» A thin notepad, short ruler, etc to wind the yarn around to make the hair (approx. 10cm/6 inches in length)

» OPTIONAL: crochet hook for pulling the hair through the head


  • Toy dimensions: The finished owl is approximately 24cm tall (9½ inches) from head to toe, and 11cm wide (4⅓ inches)
  • Worked flat: All pieces are worked flat on straight needles and seamed afterwards (feel free to knit back and forth on circular needles if you find them more comfortable)
  • Gauge/Tension: The tension using DK weight yarn is approx. 28 sts x  36 rows for a 10cm x 10cm (4 inch x 4 inch) square in stocking stitch using 3.00mm (US 2½) needles. However, tension is not important, and your stitches will stretch once your toy is stuffed.
  • Casting on: Use the long tail cast on method
  • Sewing seams: Unless stated otherwise, use mattress stitch to sew all seams
Below is a list of special techniques you will need to know in order to complete the Knot Forgotten Knit Owl:

Knitting Abbreviations

Beg = beginning

DK = double knitting or light worsted yarn (also known as light aran, weight 3, or 8ply in Australia)

g-st = garter stitch (two or more rows of knitting)

K = knit

K2tog = knit two together (knit decrease)

M1 = make 1 stitch. I use the Right Lifted Increase (or RLI) to make my increases as neat as possible

P = purl

Cut yarn, pull through and tie tightly = An alternate bind off method. Cut working yarn, leaving a 15cm/6 inch tail, and thread tail onto a wool needle. Transfer your remaining sts onto yarn tail using the wool needle as a knitting needle. Pull tightly, forming a closed circle, then thread through a 2nd or 3rd time to secure.

rem = remaining

RS = right side of work

S2 K1 p2sso = slip 2 as if to purl, knit 1, pass the two slipped stitches over. This is for making the ringlets. (NOTE: if you slip as if to knit, your ringlets won’t curl!)

st(s) = stitch(es)

st-st = stocking stitch or stockinette stitch (two or more rows alternating knit and purl stitches)

WS = wrong side of work

[…] n times = repeat the sequence in the square brackets by the number “n”

(…sts) = the number in the bracket at the end of each row indicates the number of stitches you should have on your needles after completing the row


Knot Forgotten Knit Owl Instructions

LEGS (make two):

Worked from the bottom of the foot up.
With NEON PINK, cast on 10sts, making sure you have at least 15cm (6 inches) of tail remaining

Row 1 (WS): P
Row 2: K2, [M1, K1] 6 times, K2 (16sts)
Row 3: P
Row 4: K2, [M1, K2] 6 times, K2 (22sts)
Row 5: P
Row 6: K2, [M1, K3] 6 times, K2 (28sts)
Rows 7-11: starting with a P row, st-st for 4 rows
Rows 12-23: Switch to LIGHT PURPLE. Beg with a K row, st-st for 12 rows

LEG 1: cut yarn and transfer leg to a stitch holder or spare needle.
LEG 2: cut yarn. With both legs facing RS, re-attach Leg 1, and continue through to body.


Rows 24-27: Beg with K, st-st for 4 rows (56sts)
Rows 28-63: Switch to WHITE. G-st for 36 rows
Rows 64-99: Switch to DARK PURPLE. St-st for 36 rows

Cast off

WINGS (make two):

Worked from outer edge to centre. 
With LIGHT PURPLE, cast on 30sts

Rows 1-2: Beg with P, st-st for 2 rows (NOTE: Row 1 is WS)
Row 3: [K2, P1] 10 times
Row 4: [K1, P2] 10 times
Rows 5-7: Repeat rows 3-4, then row 3 once more.
Row 8: [K1, K2tog] 10 times (20sts)
Row 9: P
Row 10: K2tog 10 times (10sts)

Cut yarn, pull through and tie tightly

EYES (make two):

Worked from the outer edge to the centre. 
With RASPBERRY, cast on 27sts

Row 1 (WS): K
Row 2: Switch to WHITE. K
Row 3: P
Row 4: [K1, K2tog] 9 times (18sts)
Row 5: P
Row 6: K2tog 9 times (9sts)

Cut yarn, pull through and tie tightly


with LIGHT PINK, cast on 10sts 

Rows 1-33: Beg with P, st-st for 33 rows (Note: Row 1 is WS)
Cast off

Optional RINGLETS for the wings (make six):

with LIGHT PURPLE, cast on 51 (or any multiple of 3) 

Row 1: sl2, K1, p2sso, casting off as you go (NOTE: remember to slip as if to purl, or your ringlets won’t curl!)

Cut yarn and leave a long tail for sewing

Making Up


NOTE: the leg seams will be facing inwards, while the body seam will run centrally up the back.

  1. Begin with the 1st leg. With the WS facing you, pick up the starting cast on tail (will be on the right-hand side). Thread onto a wool needle and, starting at the opposite end of the row (you’ll need to fold the leg towards you, RS facing out), weave through the outer loops of the cast on sts. Pull tight to close, forming the foot (TIP: weave through a second or third time to ensure the foot stays closed). Leave tail hanging for now.
  2. Repeat for 2nd leg.
  3. Before sewing the legs and body closed, tidy up all loose ends (knot off any colour changes if you haven’t already, and snip any long yarn tails short, EXCEPT the cast on tail and the final cast off tail).
  4. Cut approximately 15cm (6 inches) of WHITE (or whichever colour you used for the g-st section of the body), and sew only the first 23 rows of the 1st leg together using mattress stitch (NOTE: this doesn’t need to be exact, just make sure to count how many sts it took you to sew one leg, and repeat for the other side).
  5. Moving on to the 2nd leg, cut a long length of WHITE (about 30cm/12 inches) and use mattress st to sew the first 23 rows of the second leg. On the 24th row, connect the body seams together by following on from where you finished the 1st leg. Continue to sew all the way up to just before the WHITE gt-st section.
  6. Begin stuffing the feet and legs
  7. Use invisible mattress stitch to seam to complete the g-st section. Continue stuffing the legs and body.
  8. Continue to sew with mattress stitch up the entire length of the head, stuffing as you go.



  1. Cut a long length of DARK PURPLE yarn (or whichever colour you used for the head). Count 14 sts from the left of the centre-seam and mark with a pin. Do the same for the right side (this is roughly the sides of the body).
  2. Whip stitch the head closed, making sure to continue stuffing as you go. Stuff generously, but do not overstuff or you will see gaps in your stitches.


  1. Don’t forget this step! Using LIGHT PURPLE, whip stitch the small gap between the legs closed. Knot off and bury yarn tails within the body (if there are any remaining yarn tails hanging from the body, bury these as well).


  1. Using the same colour yarn for the wings, oversew the last three rows together, forming a semi-circle. Knot off and hide all loose ends on the WS.
  2. Pin wings in place on either side of the body (experiment with placing closer to the front or back for a different effect).
  3. Whip stitch the top edge of each wing. Then use back stitch to sew the curved edges of the wings (you may also use whip stitch, but I like to leave the cast off edge free, as it gives the wings a nice outline).



  1. Oversew or use mattress stitch to sew the WHITE sections of the eyes closed (this will form a circle). Use Invisible Mattress Stitch in RASPBERRY to complete the final two rows of the outer eye.
  2. Knot off and hide all loose ends securely on the WS.
  3. Using a long length of black or brown embroidery thread, sew one stitch to form a horizontal line across the centre of the eye. Sew over the stitch again to form one line with double thickness.
  4. Form the eye lashes by making three separate stitches below the line you just made, “catching” the straight line and causing it to curve downwards (HINT: use the centre WHITE circle in the middle of the eye as a guide).
  5. Knot off and hide all loose ends securely on the WS.
  6. Pin eyes in place on the head, experimenting with placing higher or lower (or apart if you’d like to!). Sew securely to head.



  1. With a pin, mark the centre, lowest point of the beak midway between the eyes.
  2. Using a long length of NEON PINK yarn (or the same colour you used for the feet), embroider the beak by stitching up and down from the marked centre point to the top of the beak, working from the outer sides inwards (about 3sts to the left and 3sts to the right).
    TIP: to help keep things looking symmetrical, work half way from left to right, then reverse for the other side, working right to left.
  3. Feel free to embroider over the above stitches a second or third time until you are happy with the size and shape.
  4. Knot and “tangle” the remaining yarn tail strategically behind the eyes by threading back and forth a few times, then bury the yarn tail in the head.


  1. Using WHITE and LIGHT PURPLE (or any colour combination you wish), cut 8 or more strands in each colour approximately 20cm (8 inches) in length. Repeat once more to have two piles of hair.
  2. Using your needle, make a hole through each of the top corners of the head where the hair will go.
  3. Find the centre point of one pile of hair. Using scrap yarn, tie a loose knot around the centre point and thread ends onto a wool needle (this will be removed later). *OPTIONAL: you can also use crochet hook if you have one handy.
  4. With the back of your owl facing you, pull hair towards you PART-WAY through one of the holes. You will now have a loop facing the back, and hair ends dangling at the front. Grab all the hair ends and pull together through the loop at the back to form a knot. Tighten further by individually pulling each of the hair strands.
  5. Repeat steps 3-4 for the other side.
  6. Cut hair to your desired length.


  1. Whip stitch cast on and cast off edges together RS out, and position seam line in the centre. 
  2. Wind a long length of yarn tightly around the bow in the centre until the seam line is covered. 
  3. Knot off securely at the back, leaving a long tail to sew to the head.
  4. Pin bow into place on the head.
  5. Using the long tail from the centre of the bow, sew securely into place by weaving through the middle section at the back.
    TIP: Avoid stitching far across into the side sections of the bow, or your bow won’t “sit” nicely on the head. Conversely, if making a bow-tie, then I recommend stitching into the side sections at the back of the bow to help keep the bow flush against the chest.
  6. Knot off and bury yarn tails in the head. Using your fingers, press and pull the bow into a pleasing shape.



  1. Pin three ringlets to each wing along the bottom edge (use the lines made by the ribbing to help you).
  2. Sew in place. Knot off and bury yarn tails in the body. Hide the cast on tails by weaving into the bottom half of each ringlet.

That’s it! I hope you enjoy making your Knot Forgotten Knit Owl. If you need any extra clarification for any of the steps, please leave a comment below to let me know!


  • Julia :) says:

    JEN! You continue to amaze me…
    I am totally going to try make one of these 🙂
    mwah mwah mwah

  • Lynne Fisher says:

    Thank you for making the knitted patterns – my crochet skills are very rusty. Is there any chance you will make a knitted version of the unicorn and the lion?

    • Hello, Lynne. You’re absolutely welcome – it was a lot of fun! We’re very fortunate that the fabulous Katrina @OliphantKat has made knit versions for the bear, lion and bunny. All of these are available in the ebook on the website (you need to click the right-side picture to “become a maker” and then enter your email address). She’s also currently working on the unicorn. All of her patterns are knit in the round, but if you’d feel more comfortable using straight needles, you could try modifying the monkey pattern to resemble a unicorn – I think that would work well! Jennifer xxo

  • Janet says:

    They are so lovely and make any child feel comforted

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