Free Pattern: Knot Forgotten Knit Monkey

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Please welcome the latest addition to the family – the Knot Forgotten Knit Monkey! 

Recently, I was asked to make knit versions of the latest Knot Forgotten crochet patterns (a monkey and an owl). If you’ve seen my tutorial for the Knot Forgotten Lion, then you’ll know all about this amazing cause. If you haven’t already, sign up at website to download ALL the free patterns and become a #KnotForgottenMaker!

» Click here for the Knot Forgotten Knit Owl


YARN: Less than 100g of DK weight yarn in 6 colours (feel free to use more or less). For my Knot Forgotten Knit Monkey, I used RED, WHITE, GREEN, BEIGE, YELLOW, PURPLE


» A pair of 3mm needles (US 2½) straight or circular

» Less than 1m black embroidery thread for the eyes (DK weight is also fine, but will be thicker)

» Scrap yarn in shades of PINK for the cheeks and mouth

» Toy stuffing

» Wool needle


» Pins for making up

» A thin notepad, short ruler, etc to wind the yarn around to make the tassel (approx. 10cm/6 inches in length)

» OPTIONAL: crochet hook for chaining the tassel cord


  • Toy dimensions: The finished Knot Forgotten Knit Monkey is approximately 26cm tall (10 inches) from top of fez to toe, and 11cm wide (4⅓ inches)
  • Worked flat: All pieces are worked flat on straight needles and seamed afterwards (feel free to knit back and forth on circular needles if you find them more comfortable)
  • Gauge/Tension: The tension using DK weight yarn is approx. 28 sts x  36 rows for a 10cm x 10cm (4 inch x 4 inch) square in stocking stitch using 3.00mm (US 2½) needles. However, tension is not important, and your stitches will stretch once your toy is stuffed.
  • Casting on: Use the long tail cast on method
  • Sewing seams: Unless stated otherwise, use mattress stitch to sew all seams
Below is a list of special techniques you will need to know in order to complete the Knot Forgotten Knit Monkey:

Knitting Abbreviations

Across = Repeat instructions or sequence given in square brackets for the length of the entire row. E.g. “K2tog across”, “[K1, M1] across”

Beg = beginning

DK = double knitting or light worsted yarn (also known as light aran, weight 3, or 8ply in Australia)

g-st = garter stitch (two or more rows of knitting)

K = knit

K2tog = knit two together (knit decrease)

M1 = make 1 stitch. I use the Right Lifted Increase (or RLI) to make my increases as neat as possible

P = purl

P2tog = purl two together (purl decrease)

Cut yarn, pull through and tie tightly = An alternate bind off method. Cut working yarn, leaving a 15cm/6 inch tail, and thread tail onto a wool needle. Transfer your remaining sts onto yarn tail using the wool needle as a knitting needle. Pull tightly, forming a closed circle, then thread through a 2nd or 3rd time to secure.

rem = remaining

RS = right side of work

st(s) = stitch(es)

st-st = stocking stitch or stockinette stitch (two or more rows alternating knit and purl stitches)

WS = wrong side of work

[…] n times = repeat the sequence in the square brackets by the number “n”

(…sts) = the number in the bracket at the end of each row indicates the number of stitches you should have on your needles after completing the row

Knot Forgotten Knit Monkey Instructions

LEGS (make two):

Worked from the bottom of the foot up.  
With RED, cast on 10sts, making sure you have at least 15cm (6 inches) of tail remaining

Row 1 (WS): P
Row 2: K2, M1, K1 6 times, K2 (16sts)
Row 3: P
Row 4: K2, M1, K2 6 times, K2 (22sts)
Row 5: P
Row 6: K2, M1, K3 6 times, K2 (28sts)
Rows 7-11: starting with a P row, st-st for 4 rows

Making the pants:
Rows 12-23: Switch to WHITE. Beg with a K row, st-st for 12 rows, alternating between four rows of WHITE and four rows of GREEN

LEG 1: cut yarn and transfer leg to a stitch holder or spare needle.
LEG 2: cut yarn. With both legs facing RS, re-attach Leg 1, and continue through to body.


Rows 24-43: With RS facing, beg with K row, and st-st for 20 rows, alternating between four rows of WHITE and four rows of GREEN
Rows 44-45: Switch to WHITE. St-st for two rows
Rows 46-47: G-st for two rows
Rows 48-83: Switch to GREEN. St-st for 36 rows
Row 84: K2, K2tog 26 times, K2 (30sts)
Rows 85-91: Beg with P, st-st for 6 rows
Row 92: K2tog across (15sts)

Cut yarn, pull through and tie tightly

EARS (make two of each side): 

SIDE 1 – Front:  
Worked from the outside to the centre.  
With GREEN, cast on 27sts

Row 1 (WS): K
Row 2: Switch to BEIGE. K
Row 3:

Row 4: [K1, K2tog] across (18sts) 
Row 5: P
Row 6: [K2tog] across (9sts)

Cut yarn, pull through and tie tightly

SIDE 2 – Back: 
Worked from the outer edge to the centre. 
With GREEN, cast on 27sts

Rows 1-3: Beg with P, st-st for 3 rows (NOTE: Row 1 is WS)
Row 4: [K1, K2tog] across (18sts)
Rows 5-6: Beg with P, st-st for 2 rows
Row 7: P2tog across (9sts)

Cut yarn, pull through and tie tightly


Worked from the centre to the outer edge. 
With BEIGE, cast on 24sts

Row 1 (WS): P
Row 2: K1, M1, K9, (M1, K1) 3 times, K8, (M1, K1) 2 times, K1 (30sts)
Row 3: P
Row 4: (K1, M1) 2 times, K9, (M1, K1) 2 times, K3, (M1, K1) 2 times, K9, (M1, K1) 2 times, K1 (38sts)
Row 5: P
Row 6: (K2, M1) 2 times, K10, (M1, K1) 2 times, K4, (M1, K1) 2 times, K10, (M1, K2) 2 times, K2 (46sts)
Rows 7-9: Beg with P, st-st for 3 rows

Cast off, leaving a long tail for sewing

EYE PIECES (make two):

Worked from the centre to the outer edge. 
With BEIGE, cast on 13sts

Row 1 (WS): P
Row 2: K5, [M1, K1] 3 times, K5 (16sts)
Row 3: P
Row 4: K5, [M1, K2] 3 times, K5 (19sts)
Cast off purlwise, leaving a long tail for sewing


Worked from the bottom up.
with YELLOW, cast on 36sts

Rows 1-4: P for 4 rows (NOTE: Row 1 is WS)
Rows 5-13: Switch to RED. Beg with P, st-st for 9 rows
Row 14: K2tog, K2 across (27sts)
Row 15: P
Rows 16-17: G-st for 2 rows
Rows 18-19: Beg with K, st-st for 2 rows
Row 20: K2tog, K1 across (18sts)
Row 21: P
Row 22: K2tog across (9sts)

Cut yarn, pull through and tie tightly


Worked from the top down. 
With GREEN, cast on 9sts

Rows 1-23: st-st for 23 rows
Cut yarn, pull through and tie tightly


with PURPLE, cast on 10sts 

Rows 1-33: Beg with P, st-st for 33 rows (Note: Row 1 is WS)
Cast off, leaving a long tail for sewing

Making Up


NOTE: the leg seams will be facing inwards, while the body seam will run centrally up the back.

  1. Begin with the 1st leg. With the WS facing you, pick up the starting cast on tail (will be on the right-hand side). Thread onto a wool needle and, starting at the opposite end of the row (you’ll need to fold the leg towards you, RS facing out), weave through the outer loops of the cast on sts. Pull tight to close, forming the foot (TIP: weave through a second or third time to ensure the foot stays closed). Leave tail hanging for now.
  2. Repeat for 2nd leg.
  3. Before sewing the legs and body closed, tidy up all loose ends (knot off any colour changes if you haven’t already, and snip any long yarn tails short, EXCEPT the cast on tail and the final cast off tail).
  4. Cut approximately 15cm (6 inches) of WHITE (or whichever contrasting colour you chose for the pants), and sew only the first 23 rows of the 1st leg together using mattress stitch (NOTE: this doesn’t need to be exact, just make sure to count how many sts it took you to sew one leg, and repeat for the other side).
  5. Moving on to the 2nd leg, cut a long length of WHITE (about 30cm/12 inches) and use mattress st to sew the first 23 rows of the second leg. On the 24th row, connect the body seams together by following on from where you finished the 1st leg. Continue to sew all the way up to just before the WHITE gt-st section.
  6. Begin stuffing the feet and legs
  7. Use invisible mattress stitch to seam to complete the two rows of g-st section.
  8. Continue to sew with mattress stitch up the entire length of the head, stuffing as you go (NOTE: stuff firmly but take care not to overstuff, as this will distort your stitches).


  1. Don’t forget this step! Using WHITE, whip stitch the small gap between the legs closed. Knot off and bury yarn tails within the body (if there are any remaining yarn tails hanging from the body, bury these as well).


Sewing the eye pieces:

  1. With BEIGE, thread a wool needle. Pick up an eye piece and align the cast on and off edges together to form an upside-down U-shape (RS facing). Use horizontal mattress stitch to sew the first 5 rows together from the bottom to the top (NOTE: don’t worry about keeping the bottom edge looking neat, as this will be completely hidden by the muzzle).
  2. Thread your needle through the rem sts at the end (just as you did to close the bottom of the feet). Pull through and tighten, forming a semi-circle. Knot off and hide ends on WS.
  3. Repeat steps 1-2 for 2nd eye piece.

Embroidering the eyes:

  1. Using BLACK or BROWN embroidery thread, sew a single straight line across the eye piece (about 5 rows up from the bottom). Sew over the stitch again to form one line with double thickness.
  2. Sew another straight line diagonally from the inner corner to form a “>” shape. Knot off and hide ends on WS.
  3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 for 2nd eye piece, embroidering the eye shape in reverse “<“

Sewing the eye pieces to the head:

  1. Find the approximate centre point on your monkey’s face and pin each eye piece on either side of this central line (about 15 rows up from where the pants end).
  2. Whip stitch the bottom edge of each eye piece in place (again, this will be hidden, so don’t worry about being neat). Then continue to sew around the edges of both eye pieces, taking care to keep them symmetrical.


  1. With RS facing, fold and align the cast on edge together. Starting from the inner “corner”, sew the first 8 rows together using horizontal mattress stitch. Sew the remaining rows up the side of the muzzle using mattress stitch (NOTE: feel free to sew the muzzle together from the outer edge inwards if you find this easier).
  2. Using scrap yarn in PINK, make two diagonal stitches across the horizontal mattress seam section to form the mouth (forming a VERY slight “V”). Knot off and tie yarn ends on the WS.
  3. Pin muzzle to face, aligning left and right sides with the eye pieces (with the bottom about 4-5 rows up from where the pants end). The top edge of the muzzle should completely cover the bottom of the eye pieces, with the centre being the highest point (about 8 rows down from the top of the eye pieces).
  4. Sew muzzle in place, stuffing as you go.
  5. Using scrap yarn in PINK, make three horizontal stitches (about 3sts in width) on either side of the muzzle to form the cheeks.


  1. Align the rows edges for each ear piece and oversew together to form four circles.
  2. With WS facing each other, use GREEN to whip stitch SIDE 1 to SIDE 2.
  3. Pin ears to either side of the head, in line with the eye pieces. Sew in place.


  1. With GREEN, use mattress stitch to sew rows edges together from the bottom to the very top (RS out). Keep tail open at the top, but do not stuff.
  2. Pin and sew in place on the back of the body, about 9 rows up from where the legs end.


  1. With RED, use mattress stitch to sew side seams together from the top of the fez to just before the YELLOW section.
  2. With YELLOW, use invisible mattress stitch to sew the remaining row edges to the bottom of of the fez.
  3. Partly stuff fez and pin in place at an angle on top of the head. Use YELLOW to sew in place, stuffing as you go.



  1. Using YELLOW, cut 8 or more strands approximately 20cm (8 inches) in length (this will be the main part of the tassel). Set aside for now.
  2. To make the string holding the tassel to the fez, create a plait about 8cm (3 inches) long using three strands of YELLOW yarn, leaving long yarn tails hanging at either end (alternatively, use a crochet hook 3mm or larger to chain a piece the same length, with long yarn tails hanging at either end).
  3. Using the yarn tails at one end, tie the plait securely to the centre of the pile of yarn strands. Fold the yarn strands in half, and tie a knot about 2cm (3/4 inch) down to form the tassel head. Trim tassel ends to your desired length.
  4. Use the yarn strands at the top of the plait to sew to the top centre of the fez.


  1. Whip stitch cast on and cast off edges together RS out, and position seam line in the centre. 
  2. Wind a long length of yarn tightly around the bow in the centre until the seam line is covered. 
  3. Knot off securely at the back, leaving a long tail to sew to the head.
  4. Pin bow into place below the muzzle.
  5. Using the long tail from the centre of the bow, sew securely into place by weaving through the middle section at the back.
    TIP: I recommend stitching into the side sections at the back of the bow to help keep the bow flush against the chest.
  6. Knot off and bury yarn tails in the head. Using your fingers, press and pull the bow into a pleasing shape.


That’s it! I hope you enjoy making your Knot Forgotten Knit Monkey. If you need any extra clarification for any of the steps, please leave a comment below to let me know!


  • Patricia CAZAUBON says:

    Hello Jennifer,
    Job is done and I’m very proud of it. How can I show you the result? . I can share it on your facebook if you have one. I don’t know how to proceed with this post.
    The pattern is really perfect and I’ll try the other one, the little owl.

  • CAZAUBON says:

    Hello! I’m french, and I love your monkey. But I can’t manage doing the muzzle because if I cast 24 stitches the second row is not OK, I can’t have 30 stitches and I am not able to find an issue. Can you help me?
    Thank you.

    • Hello, Cazaubon – I’m so excited you’re making a little monkey!! In the second row there are 6x increases, which should give you 30sts. The row reads: K1, (M1), K8, K1, (M1 3 times), K8, K1, (M1 2 times), K2 = 30sts — I’ve added brackets to make it clearer, I hope that helps! Let me know how you go, I’d love to see your little creation 🙂

    • CAZAUBON says:

      Hello Jennifer. Thank you so much. I’m afraid I do it wrong when increasing. I have watched how to do right lifted increase, and I’m sure now there is no mistakes in your pattern, but I always miss stitches at the end of the row. It’s difficult for me because it’s written in english and it’s not the same way to write the patterns we use. For instance, K8, K1, I don’t really understand why it’s not K9 and I suppose that’s is related with the increasing that comes after??
      Nevermind, I’m stubborn and I’ll get it and I’ll show you the result in a few days….

    • Jennifer Wang says:

      Oh, I’m by no means perfect 😉 Since these patterns are free, I haven’t used any testers to proofread, so if you do find any mistakes, I’d be so grateful. As for increasing, it’s definitely not essential that right lifted increases are used. A normal M1 will work perfectly – whatever you find easier or more comfortable. And I think you’re right, it should be K9! Haha, I must have left it in when I was trying to figure out a symmetric shape. I’m definitely looking forward to seeing your end result! And I hope you’re having a wonderful weekend 🙂

    • CAZAUBON says:

      Ok! Well, I’ll do my best and if you want, I’ll send you a french translation in order you can share it with french people. I thank you another time and I wish you a wonderful weekend too, less “rainy” than mine!!

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